Is it possible not to love Climens? Without even tasting it, all the constituents are already in place- it`s biodynamic, it has a devoted and committed owner and is beautifully run. Oh, and it is a fraction of the price of most of the world`s other top wines. And then you taste it. Berenice Lurton crafts the purest nectar out in the vineyards and in the cellar acts as alchemist, turning the leaden grey fruit into vinous gold. In every vintage the texture and linear character of the wine is nigh on perfect, while the amount of botrytis and ripeness varies and there is always balance and tension within the wine. Even Cypres the second wine is pretty wonderful. As sweet wines go, this is pretty savoury and utterly complete.

Ownership has been as up and down as most Bordeaux properties with careful and feckless proprietors. The most significant change came in 1971 when Climens was bought by Lucien Lurton and it is his daughter Berenice who now directs it. Today there are approaching thirty hectares sitting on and around the highest altitude point of the region - a locally impressive 20 metres. Mendoza eat your heart out. Detail is key here with plot by plot and picking date by date vinification and gradual blending the rule here and traceability key. The final blend is made much later than in many chateaux and so at primeurs visit time everyone tastes through a succession of wines showing the developmet of botrytis. A bottle of Climens always gives immense pleasure and usually challenges Yquem for top spot in this part of Bordeaux. (CW 19/02/18)