Neal Martin knows the score
'Two thousand and nineteen is a great vintage. I know. Boring. But my job is to tell it as it is, and that is what it is' - Neal Martin, vinous.com, June 2020
Perhaps the single most impactful wine-world release of the day is not a chateau, but Neal Martin's vintage report. Neal ruefully admits that 2019 is indeed a great vintage, contending with 2016 for the crown of the best he has tasted en primeur: 'there are instances where the 2019 vintage does surpass everything I have tasted at this unfinished stage'. He singles out identifying characteristics of 2019 as elevated aromatics (and what he identifies as a marine note that evokes the Gironde estuary), creaminess (texture rather than taste), fine tannins, and less overt power than in 2018, but much more elegance. And cross-referencing Neal's scores with this year's release prices proves there is quality and value across the region: Lafon-Rochet (St-Estephe, £170, 93-95 points), Batailley (Pauillac, £168, 94-96), Leoville-Poyferre (St-Julien, £308, 96-98), Cantenac Brown (Margaux, £187, 94-96), Poujeaux (Moulis, £105, 93-95), Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Leognan, £248, 94-96), Gazin (Pomerol, £316, 95-97), La Gaffeliere (St-Emilion, £250, 95-97), Dalem (Fronsac, £88, 93-95).
The campaign is now in its highest gear, with the releases coming thick and fast. Last week was closed by the brilliant value wines of the late Denis Durantou. Feted for his flagship L'Eglise-Clinet, which he took from relative obscurity in Pomerol to first division, it was his work in Lalande-de-Pomerol (Cruzelles) and Castillon (Montlandrie) which show his true genius, and which are rightly regarded as some of the best value wines in all of Bordeaux.
Yesterday we had Lafon-Rochet, always well-priced and a favourite for us in St-Estephe, then Talbot. This large St-Julien estate, one of the biggest single blocks of vines on the left bank, is now under the control of Jean-Michel Laporte, formerly of La Conseillante. It consistently makes delicious wines which rightly have a loyal following. We also had Conseillante (last case) and Figeac (sold out), which look set to be among the highest scoring wines on the right bank this year.
St-Julien saw a lot of releases this morning: the two large estates of Gruaud Larose and the highly scored, keenly-priced Lagrange, as well as the rather smaller Saint-Pierre and its sister chateau Gloria. From St-Estephe came Montrose, and from Pauillac the hotly anticipated Grand-Puy-Lacoste. It is well-priced and (Neal again) 'quintessential Pauillac'. Finally we went over to Pomerol for 'the best Feytit-Clinet that Jeremy Chasseuil has overseen'; Neal calls it 'magnificent'. /NT
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Offered subject to confirmation; for shipment 2022
