Grivot, Meo-Camuzet, Gouges, Tawse
Etienne Grivot had a big grin on his face when he complained to us that he was supposed to be retired by now, with winemaking duties passed on to his children Mathilde and Hubert, 'but they keep calling me back'. He has strong opinions about the quality of the vintage: '2022 is much more serious than it seems at first, it is not a simple vintage to understand. The suavity of the tannins makes the wines seem soft and easy to taste. But behind that, there is so much energy, freshness and structure'. His 2022s are lovely, airy but also energetic and intense; apparently weightless but leaving a powerful impression behind. A few streets away at Meo-Camuzet, Jean-Nicolas shares similar thoughts. He calls 2022 a 'vintage of terroir and hierarchy', and his wines have beautiful definition.
Down the road in Nuits-St-Georges, the stewardship of Henri Gouges' great-grandsons Greg and Antoine is winning round a new generation of fans for what is, for many tasters and drinkers, the defining Nuits-St-Georges domaine. The wines are as age-worthy as ever, but they also show greater phenolic maturity and lusher, silkier tannins. The 2022s here are lovely, very much displaying the freshness and mineral energy that is the signature characteristic of the vintage. As well as their domaine wines, Gouges now have a négociant line, Maison Gouges, in collaboration with trusted growers.
You only have to look at Mark Fincham's hands to know he is a winemaker who takes vineyard work seriously. He manages both the winery and vineyards at Tawse, a relatively new domaine with some impressive old vine stock. Mark adopts an eclectic approach to the use of whole bunch fermentation, varying its use according to cuvee and vintage. The 2022s at this address are lovely, bringing intense and floral aromatics to a set of vibrant, savoury wines. /NT
Read our full 2022 Burgundy vintage report here.
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2025
