Ballot-Millot, Jobard, Tessier, Marc Colin, Philippe Colin, Alex Moreau, Thomas Morey, Niellon
The villages just south of Volnay are responsible for some of the world's great white wines. At cellars in Meursault, Charles Ballot fashions wines that invariably brim with verve, tension and energy. Tasting over the last few years, we have never been in any doubt that this is one of the finest white wine domaines on the Côte. This year, we were also very much seduced by the expressive, finely-textured reds - Pezerolles is floral and lifted, Santenots is driven and saline. Arnaud Tessier makes intense, vineyard-driven Meursault from some choice parcels with fine old vine stock. He is quick to argue that great wines are made in the vineyards, and with a ferocious work ethic he certainly puts the time in, spending long hours among his vines. Antoine Jobard also favours a taut, steely style; his wines are often marked by a struck match note of deliberate reduction.
St-Aubin has long been seen as the poor neighbour of Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet, but Damien at Marc Colin admits that global warming has favoured the village. He has been proving the point over recent vintages with a series of beautiful wines.
In Chassagne-Montrachet, Philippe Colin is delighted with a vintage that has married quantity and quality; for him, the wines have an optimal balance between ripeness and acidity. Domaine Bernard Moreau is now formally rebranded Alex Moreau, with Alex fully in charge. To judge by the sheer quality of the 2022s here, it's a change he has assimilated well. At Niellon, Michel Coutoux works with old vines and some choice sites making a riper, more concentrated style of Chassagne, while at his eponymous domaine Thomas Morey likes to keep things tense and precise. He has moved to giving his top wines a second winter of ageing in steel; he considers it imbues them with a greater sense of depth. /NT
Read our full 2022 Burgundy vintage report here.
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2025
