Turning gold in colour and turning gold on the nose. Burnished orange, smoked crab apples, metal and smoke and fruit and flint. It tastes as if it has been etched with a diamond tip. It`s spicy – but I couldn`t name the spices. There is fruit – but it isn`t fruity. It`s stony – but it`s not hard or mineral. If dust motes in a shaft of light, caught in a cabin where someone had been planing a cabinet, filing the iron hinges, drinking dark-brewed coffee, smoking a spliff, light sweat brow and armpits, writing graphite-pencil notes on rough paper, eating a slice of homemade toast scraped with orange curd and honey and goat`s butter – if all that could be caught in a glass of wine, this would be the wine. On day five, the perfume soaring out of the glass was so remarkable that I pulled my head back in shock. Ylang-ylang and orange blossom, peony and nectarine. Extraordinarily intense – it seems to cup your face in cool, insistent hands and blow the fragrance across your cheeks. The palate has turned more saffron, wasabi, marigold petals, but this time with a golden-currant sweetness. The acidity and tannins have unclenched, lengthened, turned more pliant. The finish is long, white-pepper fragrant, charged. 17.5 points

Very slightly cloudy, pale amber-gold. When I tasted this wine in 2020, I totally lost my heart. I`ve tasted and re-tasted this bottle, six months later, and I don`t want to take one word away, or add one word. OK, because I have verbiage issues, I will say more. This is a stunning wine to just sip: sip while you`re watching the sun set, sip while warming your hands to open-fire flames, sitting on freshly mown grass, sitting with your feet in a cold pebbly stream. But it is also one of those wines that almost magnetically seeks the companionship of food. It was gorgeous with biltong. It was absolutely spine-tinglingly gorgeous with subtle spice curries, with lamb cooked with orange juice and apricots, and OMG with Bryant Te rry`s utterly addictive dirty cauli and tempeh. If I were a sommelier, I could not not have this wine on my list. Every time I taste it, I rush to my kitchen and cook. Every time I taste it, I feel alive. 18 points