(40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier; L 13 04209 12 10). Pale yellow-gold. Nervy, mineral-laced aromas of candied citrus fruits, nectarine and white flowers, with a zesty gingery overtone. Dry and sharply focused, offering vibrant Meyer lemon and pear flavors with subtle iodine and anise notes that gain power with air. Finishes clean, incisive and long, with the mineral and floral notes echoing. 91 points

A restrained and distinctly cool nose displays plenty of yeast character to the apple, pear and citrus-suffused nose. There is excellent intensity to the delicious and well-detailed flavors that are supported by a moderately firm effervescence and culminate in a finish that is not nearly as dry or austere as most examples of the genre. Plus there is very fine depth which is also all to the good because I often find that while I like the ultra-crisp mouth feel and finish of most examples of Brut Nature, they often do not have the sheer depth of their brut counte rparts. In sum, this is a lovely effort that does a very fine job of balancing the dryness with depth. Recommended. 92 points