Finally, it was time for Ay to take center stage in Bollinger`s new Pinot Noir series. It wasn`t until the fourth edition that one got home to the house`s most powerful stronghold and DNA. In comparison to the three previous editions, we are dealing with a tasting winner from the start. The oak notes and the home village`s smoky features hit me like a wall of sauna, grilled meat, hazelnuts and tar. The color is deeper than in previous editions and the power stronger than in the first three PN. 47% of the wine comes from the home village in casks both from 2018 and in the reserve wine on magnums from 2009. In between these mighty parts we have steel tank-aged Tauxieres, Avenay and Verzenay from the lighter and more mineral-influenced vintages of 2016 and 2017. This particular side takes the biggest place in the middle register and mid-palate of the wine. In aroma and aftertaste, Ay pushes forward with its broad muscular shoulders and leaves no one untouched. A bargain with peak 2030–2035! 93-95 points