Although founded in the early nineteenth century, Bollinger`s most famous owner was Lily Bollinger, whose husband died young in 1941. Despite the privations of the occupation Madame Bollinger pushed constantly for quality and vigilance in both vineyard and cellar. Her frequent excursions to inspect vines by bicycle became legendary and even today the details and fundamentals of production are more exactingly practised here than at many prestigious addresses in the region. And this accounts for the premium that Bollinger charge. Very few houses keep two thirds of a million magnums of petillant wine in reserve for up to twenty years just for their non vintage! And after the excesses of the Lawson boom caused a blip in quality throughout the region, Bollinger pioneered a quality Charter, especially concerning the ageing of their wines. And so we are back to Lily and her immortal, poetical quote- `I drink it when I`m happy and when I`m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I`m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I`m not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it, unless I am thirsty.` Today, for the first time in their history, the house is run by non-family member`s Jerome Philipon and Charles-Armand de Belenet. Alongside the family; they are continuing to preserve their heritage and prestige, whilst incoprprating modern techniques and resources.