2023 Yarra Yering Chardonnay

Full bottle 1,343 g. The original Chardonnay block, planted in 1969 (clone unknown), along with vines taken from cuttings of the 1969 block in 2000, make up 50% of the blend. The remaining 50% is modern clonal material originating from Burgundy (Clone 95), planted in 2012. Hand-harvested grapes are chilled overnight before whole-bunch pressing. Fermented in French oak barrels; a combination of 228-litre barriques and 500-litre puncheons, 25% new. A mix of wild and cultured yeasts. Natural acidity is preserved by inhibiting malolactic fermentation. Aged for 10 months in our cool underground cellar before blending and bottling.
Lime and smoky slate-quarry dust on the nose. Stony, and a torque of coruscating lime acidity and yet awash with creamy fruit. Texture like soapstone. Fine-ground almond on the undertow. Intense, intentional, very much a forward driving shaft of quiet power but at the same time there is nothing flashy about this wine. 17.5 points

The highly focussed 2023 Yarra Yering Chardonnay shows the elegance of the vintage with layers of creamed cashews and peach nectar plus a whisper of reduction. Tangy acidity defines the linear, chalky texture, which remains tight and unevolved as just-ripe citrus tones and fresh nougat lingers through the finish. This should improve with time in the cellar. 92+ points

The 2023 Chardonnay is a pretty, delicate rendition of Chardonnay and exhibits lovely, pliable phenolic structure in the mouth. This is, in fact, one of the highlights, as it creates a capaciousness on the palate that accommodates the brine, preserved citrus, white peach and almond meal. The length is compelling too. Very good, persistent wine here. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. 94 points