2023 Marc Colin St-Aubin En Remilly

Arguably the finest of the St-Aubin premier cru vineyards, En Remilly is part on the plateau, where the soil is thin and calcareous, and partly toppling down the slope, where clay is laid over the chalky limestone. From five different parcels (including one in the Les Cortons premier cru, allowed by the rules since that is also considered a sub-section of En Remilly), the Marc Colin En Remilly uses fruit from both the plateau and the slope. It is absolutely lovely, full of lifted notes of lemon and blossom and almond, and a very refined texture. You think it’s drawing to a conclusion, then there is a little saline cut of acidity, followed by a long aftertaste. Damien notes that the plot can suffer from drought early, and he needs to be very careful with harvest dates here – it can quickly veer towards ‘exotic’ notes. But that hasn’t happened at all this year. Beautiful. (NT 05/12/24)