The 2023 Riesling Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese is from a geologically complex site that has loess, loam, shale, weathered sandstone and volcanic formations, the moderating influence of the river also means that botrytis is possible. Spätlese and Auslese are harvested together but selected in the vineyard. Golden and gently botrytised fruit goes into Spatlese. This charms with a touch of crushed blackcurrant foliage and ripest, juiciest Reine Claude plum, all edged with citrus. Beautifully taut, vividly concentrated, yet no heaviness, just light-footed, dancing, playful and oh so balanced. (Sweet) 96 points