The 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru, which contains just over 30% whole bunch, has a knockout bouquet with very mineral-driven black fruit, damp loam and hints of black olive, complex and engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and good weight. It is very pure in style, although the previous vintage delivers a little more complexity toward the finish. This is more linear and "correct" in style. It will still offer many years of pleasure, even if patience is required. 94-96 points

Shortly before the harvest Cyprien marks up his premium vines which can be picked first. The others are picked a little later and then integrated, though a proportion may be (and in 2023 were) deselected. It would be hard to be much more meticulous than that! The 2023 Clos de la Roche shows a paler colour, with a fabulous nose. More savoury, yet very sensual, some blueberries, a very graceful perfume, a magical texture with more glycerol, perfectly ripe phenologically yet not overdone, a little saline note further back on the palate. Very complex, absolutely fascinating. Remarkably long. 5* 96-98 points