The 2022 Estate Chardonnay is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot kernel, brine and even a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it; it`s not at all compact, but it`s tight in texture. So, all things being equal, it`s an exciting Chardonnay. This is from six different sites in the Kumeu area, with wine aging on lees in 20% new oak (just about all François Frères) for approximately 11 months. Everything goes 100% malolactic fermentation, wild primary ferment, and malolactic fermentation is a mixture of inoculation and wild. From 2024, they will not be inoculating malolactic fermentation, as "the wild yeasts seem to be the most reliable," explains Michael Brajkovich. Lovely acid. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. 93 points

The 2022 Chardonnay Estate is calm, its shoulders are down and it`s almost succulent in its personality as it makes its debut in your mouth. The acidity is gentle, particularly when compared with the nervosity of 2021. There`s a fine textural character that could well be tannin that keeps this giving and leaves you licking your lips. Flavors of nectarine, clove and vanilla-like oak notes make for a rather festive finish (20% new oak). The nectarine-infused length persists making this one that`ll slip down easily over the next 3-5 years at the very least. 91 points

This is Kumeu River`s calling card. Made from a selection of six different sites of which they own four. Whole-bunch pressed and barrel-fermented (20% new). Vines planted from 1989 to 2005. 9,000 cases made. Some real richness on the nose. Then a green streak. Very fine texture! With Puligny savour and lift. Creamy yet fresh. Bullseye for the style. Good light grip on the end. Convincing. GV 16.5+ points