2022 Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal Blanc

full yellow robe, top transparency; the nose is smoky, on white tobacco, with low-key ginger, spearmint, hints of quince, has cards to play. The palate gives a stylish run of lightly floral, jasmin flower fruit, is an unusual Méal due to its restraint, is less on ripeness than in the past, has an almond tone on the finish, neat grip there. It’s a tiny bit tame for a Méal, but I am old school. The change of profile means it will evolve more gradually, so you can take time, for example from 2025-26, decant it. 2044-46 4.5 stars