Given the [Upper] Hemel-en-Aarde’s granitic soils, it makes sense that Albarino was planted here about 10 years ago. The aim is to preserve and enhance freshness by using a variety of vessels: it’s matured for eight months in stainless steel (55%), a large concrete egg vessel (20%) and larger used barrels (25%), with no fining and only light filtration before bottling. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Mouthwatering, with an impression of coastal breezes. Bright freshness with notes of capsicum, and a very long finish. Roger Jones: Amazing, ocean-fresh salinity really lingers but continues to give a fresh, clean effect on the finish. A pure delight, drink this with grilled langoustines and chilli spice. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW: Pure and clear with overt citrus fruit, fresh dough and attractive saline notes. Crisp and clean, leading to a lively finish with savoury complexity. 95 points

Bevan Newton Johnson planted the first Albarino vineyard in the country in 2011 and 2012 – on granite soils. First vintage was 2014. He fermented in concrete and then it spends some time on lees in old oak and then in stainless steel. The texture is what strikes you first about this wine, although it`s also densely floral from nose to tail. It feels like sucking on citrus peel and apricot stones. Deep stone and deep stone fruit. And a vertical salinity. Possibly one of the first Albarinos I`ve tasted outside of Rias Baixas that is as truly thrilling as a top Rias Baixas. I`d love to taste this in a blind line-up with some of the really good Galician Albarinos to see if it really does hold its own. 17 points

The 2021 Albariño Newton Johnson is aged 30% in concrete egg with a tiny amount in foudres. It has an attractive, perfumed nose with yellow fruit and white linen scents. The palate is well balanced with a tangy marmalade-tinged entry and fine acidity with a saline finish. This is worth seeking out. 89 points