2020 Quinta do Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas

The 2020 Alvarinho Primeiras Vinhas is partly (15%) aged for six months in used French barrels, the rest in stainless steel. It comes in dry and at 12.53% alcohol. The wood and the vintage (not to mention terroir issues) dramatically change the flavor profile of this as compared to the unoaked 2021s also reviewed. This is richer and more full-bodied, with a more caressing texture, too, while the flavor profile has just a hint of wood. Like its 2021 siblings, this is very well balanced and perfectly ready to drink. It should age at least as well as they will, probably better, but nothing about this now suggests it will be better in 2032 than it is today. You can dive in now, but there is no rush. Nor, however, is there any real need to wait. 90 points

Full bottle 1,158 g. Vines at least 30 years old, some planted 1974. The grapes are harvested manually. Fermentation mainly takes place in stainless-steel vats at a very low temperature (only 15% of the total volume ferments in used oak barrels), and the wine stays on fine lees, until the beginning of May. The blend includes a portion aged in large oak cask. TA 6.9 g/l, pH 3.2. You can almost smell the sunshine in this wine: ripe citrus – lemon and grapefruit and grapefruit pith – but the fruit is nicely subdued by the firmly mineral (stony/spicy) framework adding to that pithiness. Intensity of fruit contrasts with startling acidity. Needs more time to mesh as the acidity sits a little bit apart at the moment. Long, dry finish. Should age well in bottle, going by the Soalheiro track record. 16.5 points