There is a richness here, a powerful spread of black fruits, that grabs you from the start. Perhaps less razor precision than the Larcis Ducasse (also part of the Nicolas Thienpont stable) but more width and depth of flavour. This has texture and brambled power, sappy saline on the finish, touches of austerity, graphite laced through with grilled cassis and aniseed. Some reduction at this point, will clear over barrel ageing. Tasted several times, and each time the pumice stone and chalk of limestone grips on and will not let go. A yield of 31hl/ha. 95 points

The 2020 Pavie Macquin has an opaque purple-black color, exploding from the glass with an intoxicating perfume of violets, Ceylon tea, forest floor and eucalyptus over a core of blackberry preserves, Morello cherries and stewed plum, plus wafts of crushed rocks and unsmoked cigars. The medium to full-bodied palate shimmers with energetic red and black fruit layers and loads of floral and earthy sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe, finely grained tannins and amazing tension, finishing with a long-lingering perfume of black fruits. A real head-turner! 96-98 points

Dark purple. Very supple nose. Round fruit and all but imperceptible tannins until the very end. A savoury yeast-extract note on the fumey finish. Sappy and appetising. Acidity much more important than sweetness in this wine – which is no bad thing. Settled, comfortable finish. Long and reverberant. 16.5 points

Dense and oaky on the nose, black-fruit dominated; very full, firmly tannic, and very marked by its acidity; this gives all the concentrated ripe black fruit a long and linear character, a great support to the wine, and a very nice definition to the finish; long and elegant and refined for the cru, and with great aromatic length. A lovely Pavie Macquin in its slightly sturdy style, indeed maybe the best to date? But its structural combination of tannin and acidity mean it will be years in the mellowing. Drink 2032–52+. 92–94 points