Firm tannins, medium intensity colour, austere tannins, but a lovely depth to the cassis and blueberry fruit, balanced and finessed with deft and confident control exerted by the tannic architecture. As it opens a seductive creaminess arrives with blackberry, tobacco and grilled sandalwood oak. Great St Julien balance. 93 points

The 2020 Branaire Ducru takes some time to unfurl in the glass and so I afford it 10 minutes to open with rigorous swirling. It repays patience with a tightly-knit, quite intense and disarmingly pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, loamy and light minty aromas. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins. As I remarked out of barrel, there is more weight on the back palate than older vintages, greater density and backbone. This has created a more satisfying Branaire Ducru with plenty of freshness on the finish. Bon vin. 94 points

The 2020 Branaire-Ducru was so alluring en primeur, but is very shy today. That said, some of that youthful exuberance has given way to the characteristic Brainaire finesse. Dark red cherry, spice, grilled herbs, menthol and licorice emerge, but only with great reluctance. Sweet floral and spice notes lift the finish nicely. The 2020 is going to need the better part of a decade to come around. 95+ points