Marked by scents of garrigue, raspberries and black cherries, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin is full-bodied, rich and tannic but also incredibly ripe and long. The betting here is that the fruit outlasts the tannins and that the wine develops similarly to the stunning 2005. 94 points

(large barrel/casks) dark red, thorough robe; the bouquet is reserved, but holds understated promise, collects around plum fruit with a trim sweetness, carries a note of classic old vine Grenache florality. The palate is rich, tight, holds spiced, firm gras richness with a knot of smoky tannin on the finish. It’s a properly structured Chateauneuf, one with tuneful incantations, commendable menthol style freshness along the second half, blood and iron present, the aftertaste clear and resounding. It carries complexity in its kit bag, so don’t rush in: from 2025, say, a good, long life ahead. 15.5°. 2046-48. 5 stars