2019 Berliquet (St-Emilion)

The 2019 Berliquet has a refined bouquet of lifted dried iris petal scents mingling with blackberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and fleshy red berry fruit laced with tobacco and Chinese five-spice, and very well proportioned and detailed on the finish. Sophisticated. Tasted twice. 92 points

Vibrant damson in colour. I love the deep creaminess that is evident from the first nose, with hints of cocoa and gunsmoke. There is more clay here than at Canon; about 50% of the vineyard has a clay layer over the limestone whereas at Canon it is closer to 10%, meaning Berliquet is less ethereal, more urgent and powerful, still with precision and feathery chalky tannins. They have restored the underground limestone cellars for barrel ageing. A yield of 45hl/ha. 45% new oak, for what is the 2nd full year of the Canon team working the vineyard. Thomas Duclos consultant. 93 points