One of the stories of the 2018 vintage in Bordeaux was Troplong Mondot bringing in its first grapes on 7 September. Proof, many suggested, of director Aymeric de Gironde going too far in his quest to rewrite Troplong`s powerful style. It certainly made me excited to try this wine, and I hope the sceptics were too, because this is a brilliant Troplong. Oh, and although around 80% of the grapes did come in during those first 10 days, the final harvest date was 10 October. There`s clear depth just in the colour alone, and impressive complexity on the nose. There`s still a whole lot of Troplong strength and concentration here, you can`t get away from that with these clay and flint over limestone soils, but now it is softer, with more minerality. The relatively high alcohols are apparent in the texture but not as heat. I love the persistency here, as it drags things out in the most delicious of ways, with a slate and white pepper finish. Of the new vineyards bought (4ha from Clos Labarde and 6ha from Bellisle Mondotte), everything is in Troplong Mondot this year. The officials will probably ask for some sections to be included in Troplong in the next classification in 2022. 3.56pH. Drink 2027 - 2042. 97 points

85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. pH 3.56. Glowing purple rim with black core, so glossy. Colour stands out for its incredible brightness – technical director (since Sept 2017) Aymeric de Gironde says this is to do with low sulphur additions. Darker fruited and still a touch floral on the nose. Some stony/mineral notes. Very fine texture, really pure black fruit, chalky (limestone-derived) texture. Great finesse and juicy freshness. Intense fruit but full of energy and brightness. Tight, so much tension from that early harvest even though the fruit is perfectly ripe. Dry finesse and fresh persistence. I think you could enjoy this younger than many wines in this vintage. 17.5 points

The 2018 Troplong Mondot is blended of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, with 14.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.56. Deep garnet-purple in color, it begins slowly with bold, bright black raspberries, ripe black plums, fresh blackberries and Morello cherries notes, giving way to underlying scents of tobacco, wild sage, Sichuan pepper, black olives, truffles and Marmite toast with hints of crushed stones and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate offers wonderfully fresh, energetic black fruit with a downright racy line of freshness (uncommon for this vintage) and firm, rounded tannins, finishing long with lots of mineral, earth and dried herbs layers giving beautiful electric sparks. 93-95+ points

The 2018 Troplong Mondot is a remarkable wine. All the elements fall into place in a stunning, aromatically intense Troplong Mondot that is full of character. There is a level of precision and vibrancy in the 2018 that is simply breathtaking. Black cherry, raspberry, mocha, flowers, mint and spice all meld together in this captivating, arrestingly beautiful Saint-Émilion. New oak is 60%, with lower toast levels than what was common just a few years ago. The blend is 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. 94-97 points

This is 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. A very pretty style, fresh, aromatic, gently perfumed, with scents of grilled red cherry, and touches of black violet and plum cream. A very elegant style, lifted and fresh, and dancing nicely across the palate. It feels very supple and svelte, a style which is reined back from the excesses it displayed maybe ten years ago, a clear indicator of new management here. There is a lush texture to the middle, with a light grain, fresh and vivacious, and it comes wrapped in velvety and tightly knit tannins, which encircle the delightfully vivacious fruit. An impressive style, ripe, svelte and firmly tannic in the finish, with a fine limestone grip here too. 95-97 points