In 2017, a change in ownership at St-Emilion property Troplong Mondot was accompanied by a dramatic change in style. With a thick layer of clay laid over the limestone, Troplong has a naturally powerful terroir. The previous owners had leaned into that, and made a wine marked by a ripe, extracted style. But new winemaker Aymeric de Gironde, aided by consultant Thomas Duclos, has turned that around, and since 2017 the style here has been to rein in the natural power of the terroir for a more elegant, sculpted style. Troplong is still not shy, but it is much more balanced. To achieve this, de Gironde has pulled harvest earlier. Fermentation now happens at a lower temperature, malolactic conversion no longer takes place in new oak, and the percentage of new oak used to raise the wine has been brought down to 65 (from 90). This has all made for a very appealing transformation.

Troplong Mondot dates back to the 17th century, when it was laid out by an abbot. Subsequent owner Raymond Troplong gifted his name. In the early 20th century, it was the first property acquired by Belgian wine merchant Georges Thienpont. When the Depression began to bite, in order to retain Vieux Chateau Certan, he sold Troplong Mondot to the Valette family. They looked after it till the 2017 sale to the current owner, the SCOR insurance company.

It`s easy to find Troplong, as the vineyards are landmarked by the commune’s water tower – at 100 metres, this is the highest point in St-Emilion. The vineyard planting ratio is 73% Merlot/16% Cabernet Franc/11% Cabernet Sauvignon. There is also a second wine, Mondot, which takes fruit from younger vines as well as the vines on pure limestone (which make a lighter wine) leaving the vines on clay/limestone for the grand vin. (NT 19/08/25)