This is the Niellon’s oldest plot, hard to work as the vines grow almost straight on the rock. There is also a hydric stress risk here. Clear pale colour, the nose is a little blocked today. White fruit, excellent texture, just the right acidity, savoury saline notes but sheer class too. Lovely. 93 points

One wine that`s indubitably built for the cellar is Niellon`s emblematic 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Clos de la Truffière. Opening in the glass with scents of crisp orchard fruit, Meyer lemon, wheat toast and a subtle touch of reduction, it`s medium to full-bodied, textural and incisive, with fine depth at the core, lively acids, and a long, precise finish. 94 points