2017 Vieux Chateau Certan (Pomerol)

The 2017 Vieux Chateau Certan was picked in three passages through the vineyard, 12 and 13 September, 18 and 19 September and finally 25 September to 2 October. The yields are 37hl/ha with 14.2° alcohol and a 3.75 pH. It is the first vintage to contain Cabernet Sauvignon for several years. It has a very pure, Merlot-driven bouquet with black cherries, redcurrant and wild strawberry scents, just a hint of iris and incense in the background. The 70% new oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannin, a deep well of black and red fruit interwoven with allspice, truffle, white pepper and a little sage. This Vieux Chateau Certan manifests more complexity and profundity as it aerates, delivering genuine, spine-tingling mineralite on the persistent finish. It gains even more precision when I return to the property to re-taste it again. Tasted twice, ten days apart at the property. 94-96 points

Extremely bright, dark fruit aromas are joined by hints of gooseberry a

No frost damage thanks to their location on the plateau, but they were among the lucky ones. Good yields here for old vines (mostly 1932–82 and a small parcel of younger Cabernet Sauvignon planted in 2012, Cabernet Franc planted 1959). 81% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 5% (young-vines) Cabernet Sauvignon, which they included for aromatic lift. According to Alexandre Thienpont, it is `un Bordeaux de reference’ (benchmark bordeaux). pH 3.75, TA (sulphuric) 3.4 g/l, yield 37 hl/ha. Deepest crimson with black core. Not much aroma at first because the sample is cool. Rich, firm, dark and more savoury than usual, darker-fruited. Great freshness. Has impressive depth without weight. Very fine shape, great refinement even now. Feels like it is coiled tightly for the future. Dark beauty with just a very slight char on the finish and a long graphite aftertaste. Cool nights kept the freshness. 18.5 points