2017 Les Pagodes de Cos (St-Estephe)

The 2017 Les Pagodes de Cos, which is being matured in 30% new oak (half of the Grand Vin), has a very clean and pure bouquet with black cherries, boysenberry jam and Indian ink. There is certainly impressive intensity here considering this is the deuxième vin. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin. It is furnished with pretty blackberry and wild strawberry notes laced with white pepper and a subtle graphite seam. It has good sustain in the mouth with a “Pauillac” inspired finish in terms of discrete austerity and tannic backbone. I admire the focus here and even though there is not huge length this should age well. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 90-92 points

This is enjoyable right off the bat, with its firm dark chocolate, liquorice and cassis character, joined by licks of gourmet patisserie swirling through - exactly what you expect from Pagodes de Cos, without losing its sense of restraint. I like the subdued power, and it seems more in the style of 2014 than 2015 or 2016. It`s a touch austere but appealing, with a sumptuous touch that keeps it in the Cos stable. 60% of production went to the second wine this year, almost entirely from separate plots. Just 20% of the plots are interchangeable between grand vin and second wine, depending on the vintage character. 90 points

56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Harvested 12–30 September. 30% new oak. pH 3.71, IPT 61. Much more scented than the Goulée just tasted, with lovely dark-red fruits here. Sweet cassis and a light floral note. Delicate but harmonious structure, cool and silky, extremely silky, very fresh, apparently delicate but persistent too. Elegant and fresh right to the finish. Succulent and beautifully balanced. 17 points

This is the second label of Cos d’Estournel, which accounted for about 55% of production in 2017. A blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1 % Petit Verdot, the 2017 Les Pagodes de Cos has a deep garnet-purple color and exuberant notes of crushed blackberries, red currants and cassis with touches of charcuterie, black soil and garrigue plus a waft of lavender. Medium-bodied and very fine-grained, it has great intensity and vibrancy with a good long, fruity finish. 90-92 points