2017 Henri Gouges Nuits Clos des Porrets

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint Georges 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet of black cherries, bilberry jam, a touch of blue fruit and just a hint of licorice. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. There is an initial burst and then everything clamps back down so that the second half is structured and grippy. Lacks a little charm at the moment, but give this time in bottle. 90-92 points

Aromas of wild berries and forest floor mingle with notions of grilled game and raw cocoa in a complex bouquet, framed by cedary new oak, introducing the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets Saint Georges. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and decidedly velvety for a young Clos des Porrets, with ripe tannins, tangy acids and a long, succulent finish. 92 points

The wood treatment is a bit more evident than with any of the prior wines but not so much as to diminish the appeal of the earthier and cooler aromas of violet, plum and full-on sauvage notes. The delicious middle weight flavors are more refined than usual if not actually refined, all wrapped in detailed, focused and solidly powerful finish. Note that while this will certainly age, it`s sufficiently round to make for reasonably good early drinking. 90-92 points