2017 Haut-Bages Liberal (Pauillac)

The 2017 Haut-Bages-Libéral offers blackberry and cedar on the nose, classically flaired and nicely defined though perhaps a little conservative in style compared to others. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin although it lacks a little density in the middle and tapers towards the finish with pencil shavings “liberally” sprinkled over the aftertaste. I suspect that this Pauillac will drink nicely over the next decade. Tasted at the UGC trade tasting. 89-91 points

Ripe but savoury cassis, with more of a bud than fruit character. This is gentle and insisting, a lovely build up of different elements of fruit, tobacco and charcoal. They had higher yields than last year here, as at many Pauillac estates. It`s their first year of 100% conversion with Demeter, although they have been progressively converting over last few years and are already Ecocert certified. It will be ready to drink within five to eight years. 40% new oak for six months. 89 points

Deep cherry with smudgy rim. Lifted cherry fruit on the nose – pretty and bright. Soft, supple and rather gentle but all in balance. Creamy finish. 16 points