At one of Pauillac’s highest spots, with plots next to Latour (overlooking the Gironde) and to Pichon-Baron (on the Bages plateau), Haut-Bages Liberal has always enjoyed great terroir. But even that is not enough to explain the quality of recent vintages here. Jane Anson calls owner Claire Villars ‘one of the most exciting winemakers in Bordeaux’, and the work that Claire has been doing here is remarkable. She has completely transitioned the estate to biodynamic viticulture. She has planted trees among her vines, which bring shade and cool air to hot vintages; a cover crop of wild flowers and sweet peas between the vine rows mean healthier soil and less evaporation. It all feeds back into healthier vines and, ultimately, better fruit. In the cellar, over recent vintages she has dialled down the fermentation temperature to between 24-27 degrees; it allows the fruit to show through more.

The triple-barrelled name evokes the hill of Bages where the winery sits, and the Liberal family who owned the property in the eighteenth century (an era when chateau owners liked to put their own name on their properties). The vineyards are planted to 75/25 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – there was Petit Verdot, but it has been progressively removed. Over her years in charge, Claire has also rebuilt the cellar and built a completely new winery. (NT 15/08/23)