2017 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with white pepper, scorched earth and ripe dark-skinned berry on this classically crafted Barolo. Full-bodied and savory, it shows elegance and tension, offering flavors of mature Morello cherry, blood orange and licorice before a minty close. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins offer austere support. 94 points

The 2017 Barolo Villero is another terrific wine in this range from Fenocchio. Dark and layered in the glass, with veins of the firm tannin that often defines Villero, the 2017 is wonderfully expressive. Sweet red cherry, iron, dried herbs and earthy tones all open in the glass. Readers will find a tightly wound, savory Barolo of real character. Give it a few years to unwind. 93 points