2017 Donnhoff Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg

It broke my heart to see this beautiful Leistenberg Kabinett bottled under screwcap, as this wine has the potential for a very long life in bottle, but such is the nature of the market these days. In any event, the wine itself is outstanding, wafting from the glass in a refined bouquet of white cherries, apple, a fine base of slate, a nice touch of wild yeasts and a bit of upper register sea salts. On the palate the wine is medium-full, crisp and vibrant, with lovely purity to the fruit element on the attack, excellent backend mineral drive and lovely bounce on the complex and filigreed finish. Classy Kabinett. Drink 2018-2040. 93 points

Year in, year out, Dönnhoff’s Leistenberg challenges for the title of Kabinett of the year. Never one to overpower the sensory perception, it teases with delicate delights of zesty citrus fruit, a gentle floral whisper and racy acidity to get the salivary glands contracting. 17.5 points