Saturated ruby. An expansive bouquet evokes smoke- and spice-accented raspberry, cherry and blueberry, along with suggestions of candied flowers, musky earth and baking spices. Densely packed red/blue fruit preserve, fruitcake and licorice flavors become livelier through the back half. This blends richness and energy with a steady hand and finishes very long and chewy, with steadily building tannins lending final grip. 95 points

Full, dark red colour. Blackberry, cedary cigar smoke, violets mix attractively together on the nose. Black raisin and date airs show along with fragrance – that floral touch important. There’s a good cool thread all along the palate, which carries good spine, runs really straight, has structure with stylish gras potential around it, leading into a smoky, lasting finish which shows pebbly tannins. There are salted moments and a good, complete run here, and this wine’s freshness is superior to most 2017s. The empty glass has an air of cherry stone. 15.3%. `It is a very profound year,` Vincent Avril. Down from 100,000 b to 60,000 b this year. Drink through 2046-50. 5*

As predicted last year by Paul-Vincent Avril, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, about 10% Syrah and the rest other permitted varieties. It boasts a cool, fresh nose of strawberries, cola and tree bark, yet it`s full-bodied and tannic on the palate. Dense and chewy, albeit with a mouthwatering sense of freshness, this will need a few years to relax and unwind, but it looks very promising. 96 points