Heady aromas of underbrush, cedar, mocha and menthol are front and center on this full-bodied red. Smooth and delicious, the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, star anise, tobacco and truffle set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2036. 96 points

The top-shelf wine in this group from Sesti is the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Phenomena. This wine is sharp and angular on first nose, with ripe fruit aromas, black tar and some toasted notes that come off as quite fortified, especially when applied to the more delicate nature of Sangiovese. These results are intense, maybe overworked, and reveal a Riserva with ample muscle and brawn. Production is 3,750 bottles. 93 points