2016 Jean-Paul Droin Chablis Montmains

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains saw 35% to 40% aging in oak, with the remainder in stainless steel. It has an almost Chassagne-like bouquet and already demonstrates impressive intensity with scents of almond and hazelnut that Benoît Droin attributes to the clay soils. The palate is well balanced, with a slightly viscous opening that recedes midway, leaving the second half with white citrus fruit and a touch of spice and nutmeg. I love the cohesion and the build of this Montmains and its crescendo on the finish. Recommended. 91-93 points

(just 20 hectoliters per hectare produced due mostly to frost): Pale, bright yellow-green. Lovely calcaire lift to the aromas of lemon zest and powdered stone. Initially juicy, penetrating and a bit lean after the thicker Vaillons, but this lovely tangy wine opened with air and gained markedly in suppleness. This premier cru will doubtless need a couple years of bottle aging to blossom. 90-92 points

Big and muscular. Not refined but chewy and youthful. 16+ points

There is a mildly tropical character to the fresh range of pear, apple, viognier and soft ocean breeze scents. The rich, round and supple flavors possess enough vibrancy to remain refreshing and inviting on the sappy, clean, dry and saline-inflected finish. 89-91 points