2016 Jean-Paul Droin Chablis Montee Tonnerre

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has such a pretty, winsome bouquet with scents of pressed white flowers, white peach, subtle smoke and walnut aromas. The palate is flinty on the entry with wonderful tension. This is not a powerful Chablis but one that emphasizes the terroir and is blessed with a precise, elegant and persistent finish. This is an outstanding effort by Benoît Droin and clearly the pick of his premier crus this year. 92-94 points

(began in 25% oak): Light yellow-green. Captivating, soil-driven scents of lime skin, crushed rock, fresh herbs and caraway seed. In a distinctly cool style, despite the fact that Droin picked these vines later at 12.8% potential alcohol due to hydric stress here in August, but with noteworthy density to the slightly reduced flavors of anise and rock. Not hugely ripe but strong in extract and very long and saline on the slowly building aftertaste, finishing with a suggestion of silex. I love the cool minerality on display here. 92-94 points

Cool, restrained and chalky. Not the most communicative Chablis 2016. Lots to chew on. 16++ points

Reduction and SO2 dominate the nose today. Otherwise there is a beguiling and caressing mouth feel to the sleek, intense and nicely refined medium weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the notably dry finale that exhibits a touch of youthful austerity. Like the Vaulorent, my sense is that this should drink well young but also repay mid-term cellaring. 90-92 points