2016 Donnhoff Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Dry

From Bad Kreuznach, the 2016 Nahe Riesling Kahlenberg Trocken has a coolish and smoky quartzite bouquet with ripe and fresh white fruit aromas. Round and elegant on the palate, the Kahlenberg has lush, elegant fruit balanced by frisky, buoyant and pretty charming acidity. It is a delicious Riesling that needs a year or two to develop all its charm. 90+ points

This year’s Kahlenberg – unlike its 2015 predecessor – is just as austere in its firmness, piquancy and initial impression of wet stone as the corresponding Tonschiefer bottling. But there is a juicier abundance of apple, grapefruit and white peach, and the finish is more refined, featuring the invigorating crunch of mustard seed and the bite of huckleberry, pleasantly pungent green herbal nuances, and impressive transparency to tinglingly stony and mouthwateringly maritime mineral nuances. 91 points

An exhibition of aromatic diversity impresses the sensory perception. The Kahlenberg manages to deflect from its dry undercurrent with the juicy fruit of peach and lime, a subtle salty tang, piquant acidity and fine creamy texture. An itsy-bitsy smidgeon of residual sugar does the rest to soften the dry impact. 17 points