2015 Jean-Paul Droin Chablis Vosgros

A slightly riper if agreeably fresh nose speaks of green fruit, white peach and pear aromas that introduce concentrated and pure middle weight flavors that culminate in a relatively dry but not especially austere finish. A wine of harmony though not great depth, at least not yet in any event. 88-91 points

(from 35-year-old vines; like the Vaucoupin and Côte de Léchet, this is made entirely in stainless steel). Bright green-tinged yellow. High-toned, high-pitched aromas of pepper and lemon reminded me a bit of Grüner Veltliner. Juicy and gulpable, with lime, fresh herb and pepper flavors leading to a firm if slightly bitter-edged finish. This cuvée typically shows "a slightly petrolly quality in ripe years, like Riesling," noted Droin, but there was little evidence of that in June. 86-89 points