2014 Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges Vaucrains

The 2014 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru les Vaucrains, cropped at 26 hectoliters per hectare, was just a little loose-knit on the nose when I tasted it at the domaine, perhaps missing the cohesion of the Pruliers. The palate pulls things together with slightly savory red berry fruit, fine tannin and well judged acidity. There is a chalky note coming through on the finish and a spiciness that comes through on the aftertaste. Again, classic in style, at the moment the palate is leading the way and waiting for the nose to catch up. 90-92 points

(from a 1.08 ha mix of younger and older vines that average about 50+ years of age). Here too there is a subtle application of wood setting off the intensely spicy and overtly sauvage aromas of mostly cassis and black raspberry aromas that are also liberally laced with warm earth nuances. The muscular big-bodied flavors possess real power and punch along with ample minerality before terminating in a hugely long, complex and well-balanced finale. As it always is this is distinctly old school in style and will definitely require extended cellaring. 91-94 points

Situated right on the bedrock (hence its name, meaning “worth nothing”), this austere vineyard makes concentrated, densely textured wines from very small berries. Firm and slightly chewy, but with impressive underlying power and fruit weight. Drink 2020-30. 94 points