Cask sample. Almost pure eau-de-vie de poire (pears) on the nose. This blend from four prime sites shows a wonderful concentration of fruit, which comes from low yields and high extract. It may only be village level, but this is a trocken with substance and attitude. The acidity of 2013 has been well tamed, but there is plenty of compact minerality to provide the defining contours. Serious and profound, just like its maker. 17 points