A fascinating nose of black tea; rather Pinot Gris-like meatiness; and marine breeze carries over onto a juicy, piquant palate suggestive of kumquat, apple, and persimmon. This finishes with considerable complexity and saliva-inducement of also an element of bitterness. It should prove highly fascinating to follow for a half-dozen or more years. Helmut Donnhoff opines that the relative levity and focus of this wine reflects the gravelly, sandy, wide-open, breezy, high-elevation slope of its site, which promotes tiny, thick-skinned berries, characteristics that could only be reinforced by the 2011 growing season. 90 points