Lisini`s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia hits the palate with huge dark fruit, incense, tobacco, smoke, grilled herbs, licorice and game. Ample and structured on the palate, the 2008 is a wine for the cellar. Today, the tannins are imposing, but there is plenty to look forward to. Dried rose petals, game, incense, orange peel and white pepper are some of the notes that are laced into the expressive finish. Stylistically, the 2008 is likely to always be burly and a bit round around the edges, but its beauty is undeniable. 94 points