2007 Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Tinto (Bairrada)

Although entitled to the Bairrada DO and made according to the regulations, Luis, a feisty chap who`s contempt for bureaucrats is legendary, has now fallen out with enough of them that he now bottles all his wine as Vinho Regional Beiras - a step down, equivalent to Vin de Pays - as a protest. This wine ages fabulously but drinks well now, so if you are looking for something with brambly, herby fruit, minerality and energy, look no further. (CW 12/01/12)