2003 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon

A year that will always be remembered for its summer heatwave and dry harvest conditions which have inevitably shaped the wines. This presents a rich and rather burnished gold colour in the glass, surely a reflection of the generosity of the vintage rather than any botrytis. Indeed the nose is pure, focused, minerally and tense, surprisingly so, with a crushed-chalk freshness. The palate develops more like a 2003 though, broadening it out, developing a rich weight of textural and velvety fruits, plush and polished, although it remains fresh thanks to the tension, acidity and powdery grip of tannins that hide within. Suitably caressing and velvety in the finish, this is going to continue developing, and it would be great to see some greater complexity emerge alongside the rich substance. 93 points