The Dezat operation really is a family operation with Andre`s two sons looking after vineyard and winery and their wives running the office. Each sector operates with efficiency and a keen eye for detail and quality. The vines are ruthlessly managed to ensure notoriously low yields, while in the winery, the fruit`s integrity is impeccably preserved by careful handling and fermentation in chilled stainless steel. Roughly 20 hectares are scattered throughout 5 villages, ensuring that consistency is coupled with high quality.
Loire
Loire
The Loire is both a hotbed of winegrowing radicalism and a centre of tradition and conservatism. Our growers tend to the traditional, but must display excellence too - the two don't always go hand in hand. The river Loire is a huge beast, influencing almost a third of France and responsible for the oak forests of Allier as well as the (almost defunct since phylloxera) vineyards of St-Pourçain. Most people tend to think of the East/West stretch of the river from Sancerre to Muscadet, crudely put. In the central vineyards of Sancerre and neighbours Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot reign, more westerly regions rejoice in Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, while towards Nantes the grapes are Melon de Bourgogne (nothing to do with either) and Gros Plant; a grape so acidic doctors still prescribe it for certain infections.
- Claude Riffault
The crus of Burgundy are well-mapped and understood; less so, the vineyards and lieu-dits of Sancerre. But for winemaker Stephane Riffault, these are among France’s finest terroirs, able to produce ‘great white wines of stature and complexity’. He is on a mission to show just that. Since taking up the reins at his small family domaine, Claude Riffault, he has been producing a range of intense, textured, terroir-driven Sancerres which prove that the region can stand proud on the world wine stage.
- Domaine Fournier Longchamps
Domaine FL has a unique place in Loire valley history. It’s a relative newcomer but is formed out of two historical estates and founded on the twin principles of craft and graft but utterly reliant on fabulous terroir. The Savennieres part of the company was owned and developed by legendary grower Jo Pithon, one of the most respected vignerons in the region and whose example still inspires the dedicated work done in the vineyards. The full name Fournier Longchamps combines both sides of owner Philippe Fournier’s parentage.
- Francois Chidaine
Francois Chidaine is undoubtedly the top grower in Montlouis, and surely one of the best Chenin producers anywhere. He is a second-generation winemaker who has, over the years, picked up some absolutely top parcels in his area. Working with a high proportion of old vines (many between 40 and 80 years of age) leads to a natural intensity and concentration in his wines. He was an early adopter of organics and biodynamics, though these days what he is most excited about is regenerative agriculture. no-till farming with a permanent cover crop.
- Francois CotatSancerre is not a style of wine that typically inspires a cult following, but the wines of Francois Cotat are an exception. These are perhaps more an expression of their terroir, the terres blanches limestone marl vineyards around Chavignol, than their grape variety. Mineral and herbal when young, they gain richness, depth and intensity when properly matured. Every vine that Francois owns is within a kilometer of his cellar on a Chavignol side street, which itself is overlooked by the Mont Damnés vineyard (so named by pickers who struggle on the steep slopes).
- Hauts Pemions
Proper Muscadet sur lie from Christophe Drouard is a return to a glorious past of classic, dry white wines for food and aperitif. The wines are grown on silican clay in the Monnieres area of the appellation and have a freshness and cleanness to them, partly from the almost champagne-like autolysis and partly from their aging in underground, glass lined tanks. There are sixteen hectares of vines and the wines produced from them are frequent award winners.
- Huet
From 1929 until 1976, excepting the years of the Second World War which he mostly spent interned as a POW, Gaston Huet made Vouvray – in more ways than one. The fame of Vouvray rests with him more than anyone else. He laboured tirelessly in the appellation’s best vineyards, making Chenin Blanc that entranced drinkers worldwide with its intensity and ageability. These days, Huet is no longer in the family, but Vouvray native Benjamin Joliveau is the winemaker. The domaine remains as strong as ever, making Vouvray’s finest wines.
- Moulin TouchaisSurely one of the most singular producers in France. Their wine-retention policy is as comprehensive as an old school Riojana. To only slightly out-do Alan Partridge, at any one time they have over two million bottles of wine in their cellar. Youngest release date for any vintage is ten years after harvest. Their regime for winemaking and growing is unusual too. They harvest at least one quarter of the fruit in an underripe state, then the remainder after at least 120 days on the vine, but generally without botrytis.
- Yannick AmiraultWithout doubt one of the Loire valley`s best family producers, the Amiraults have vineyards on some very high quality and tantalisingly different soils/terroirs. With less than 30 acres and huge demand in France it`s quite a challenge to get an allocation of any of his wines, so we are delighted to have grabbed just one. Ours, Le Grand Clos, is planted on cool, moisture retaining siliceous clay, which give a restrained style.
