Loire
Loire
The Loire is both a hotbed of winegrowing radicalism and a centre of tradition and conservatism. Our growers tend to the traditional, but must display excellence too - the two don't always go hand in hand. The river Loire is a huge beast, influencing almost a third of France and responsible for the oak forests of Allier as well as the (almost defunct since phylloxera) vineyards of St-Pourçain. Most people tend to think of the East/West stretch of the river from Sancerre to Muscadet, crudely put. In the central vineyards of Sancerre and neighbours Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot reign, more westerly regions rejoice in Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, while towards Nantes the grapes are Melon de Bourgogne (nothing to do with either) and Gros Plant; a grape so acidic doctors still prescribe it for certain infections.
- Pays NantaisThe Atlantic coast gives us not just that neglected classic – Muscadet, but the much more acidic Gros Plant, which used to be prescribed for bladder problems. Muscadet can be a brilliant wine but got lost in the UK market in the early 1980s when Kiwi Sauvignon blanc and early Australian dry whites arrived. That is a shame, because the best age well and even young display fine, leesy and vinous character. (CW 23/01/12)
- Anjou-TouraineFrom the land of Chateaux and son et lumière displays comes most of the Loire`s sparkling wines, much of the Cabernet Franc and Malbec (here called Cot) and almost all of the Chenin. Visiting this area, the cradle of French cuisine makes one think not just that they really need a National Trust, but that there is a fine wine heritage that needs protection too. Sadly this part of the Loire seems to have become a bit of a centre for soi-disant natural wines and the snobbery that attaches to them. (CW 23/01/12)
- Central VineyardsSituated around the bend in the river it is fair to say that Sancerre, Quincy, Pouilly-Fumé and the rest are about halfway along the river. The Loire is just an enormous river affecting almost a third of the country and responsible not just for loads of lovely wine, but waters and drains the Allier forest, which provides fine oak for barrels. The Central Vineyards are politically Burgundian, only an hour`s drive from Chablis and share the soil too. Wines here are overwhelmingly from Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir and light bodied, the best whites in particular having a taut structure and tons of minerality. (CW 23/01/12)