Alongside his contemporary Álvaro Palacios, Telmo Rodríguez is one of the most influential figures on the modern Spanish wine scene. His work reviving old and abandoned vineyards and then parlaying them into new wines has been one of the defining projects of the modern era for Spanish wine. His launchpad was his family’s Rioja estate, Remelluri, where in particular he became known for the very fine white wine (made from no less than nine grape varieties, a radical departure for Rioja). But in 1994 he did something very different when he launched the Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez with his good friend from student days in Bordeaux, Pablo Eguzkiza. In effect, he transformed himself into Spain’s equivalent of the flying winemaker, uncovering and revivifying old vineyards and using these to underpin new wines. There are few areas in Spain where he hasn’t made a mark. He has developed old vine Garnacha in Navarra, mountain wine in Malaga, Gredos Garnacha among other projects in Alicante, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Toro and Rioja. In 2016, he was also the driving force behind the enormously influential Club Matador manifesto calling for fundamental changes in Spain’s appellation systems. His wines are always going to be worth seeking out. (NT 31/07/25)