1855 second growth Gruaud-Larose is very much one of the grander estates in Saint-Julien. It occupies a high point on the Medoc plateau and I can attest it gets windy there; that wind serves to dry the vines and help prevent vine infections. The modernistic viewing tower that divides opinion and stands in angular contrast to the classical chateau does enjoy some far-reaching views of the Medoc.

But this chateau has also had a longstanding commitment to sustainable and organic viticulture, and no pesticides or insecticides have been used since the 1990s. 2022 represented the first certified biodynamic vintage, with organic compost, water recycling, homeopathic treatment for vine diseases, and sheep keeping the grass under control between the rows during the winter months. And in an example of shrewd management, vineyard workers are given their own specific plots to tend throughout the year.

The wine has always been made to live long, seeing at least eighty per cent new oak in barrel ageing. Since Eric Boissenot began to consult here in 2006, he has helped bring a deftness to the tannin management. the tannins are still tight and built for aging, but are also that bit more supple. (NT 10/08/23)