Chateau Carmes Haut-Brion

Chateau Carmes Haut-Brion


Having been dealing mostly with the larger Medoc estates recently, here we are looking at one of almost Burgundian proportions, and the comparison doesn`t end there. Like a lot of Burgundy estates this was for over two hundred years a religious house, in this case Carmelite. It is tiny like a Cote d`Or estate too. Listen up, people, with a total grand vin production of around 1,800 cases we`re talking both scarcity and quality. The quality comes partly from the 4.6 hectare gravelled, sloping limestone soils enclosed by the old nunnery walls and the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon planted within. All operations are carried out by hand and the wine is fined but not filtered after maturation in oak, of which one third is new. Neighbours of Haut-Brion but otherwise unconnected, the two wines nevertheless have strong stylistic connections. Indeed, as Neal Martin says, it reminds me of a Cheval Blanc mimicking Haut-Brion. He goes on to say, purchase without hesitation. From my tastings, I can only concur. This is pure, supple, sinuous indulgence. (CW 08/06/10)

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