2018 Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan)

37% Cabernet Franc/34% Cabernet Sauvignon/29% Merlot. Yield 37 hl/ha. Harvest dates 13-28 September. Barrel aging: 75% new oak barrels, 16% foudres, 9% terracotta amphorae. Director Guillaume Pouthier described to us how the Bordeaux ideal used to be a rich woody wine; these days, though, it`s much more about decreasing concentration and increasing aromatics, about making a wine that can age for a long time and yet be accessible young. It`s a difficult balance, but beautifully carried off at Carmes Haut-Brion; the wine is silky and dark-fruited but not heavy, with velvety tannins and totally integrated new wood. Sheer finesse. (NT 12/04/19)
Origin
Pessac, Graves, Bordeaux FRANCE
Colour
red
Wine Style
dry
Dominant Grape
Cabernet Franc
Farming Style
biodynamic
Closure Style
cork
Maturity
young
Bottle Size
75cl
Case Quantity
6
Alcohol
13.5%
Wine Score
98 points, Jane Anson, decanter.com, April 2019 16.5 points, Julia Harding, jancisrobinson.com, April 2019 94-96+ points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, robertparker.com, April 2019
95-98 points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, April 2019
90 points, J-M Quarin, q
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2018 Carmes Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan)

Media Reviews

Jane Anson

The march of Carmes Haut-Brion continues in 2018. Once again it stands out for a number of reasons: not least because of its high amount of Cabernet Franc, and also because it is made with 53% whole-bunch fermentation - a brave choice by winemaker Guillaume Poutier and one that pays off hugely in terms of balance and lean muscular build. Even without knowing any of the story behind the bottle, you would be hard-pressed to pass this wine by. It has obvious intensity but as you sit with it the softness and approachability of the tannins becomes apparent, helped by the inviting floral edge to the nose, adding peony and violet lift. The black fruits running through the palate are tight but silky and seductive - this has a higher Cab count than usual because the Merlots were more affected by the challenges of the vintage. The palate pulses, switching between richness and delicacy, feeling expertly handled. You get the feeling that you can relax - they`ve got everything covered! It will inevitably close down in a few years, but until then you could almost go for it with a good carafe. IPT95. Harvested 13-28 September. 3.58pH. Ageing is mostly in large oak casks, 76% new, plus 9% aged in amphorae. Drink 2027 - 2042. 98 points

Julia Harding

Deepest cherry red. Lifted dark-red fruits, inviting and lively aromas with a hint of crushed stones. Juicy and full of beans. Crunchy fruit, well-defined tannins. Not sure why everyone is making so much fuss about this wine. 16.5 points

Lisa Perrotti-Brown

The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is composed of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. It was made using 52% whole cluster and has 13.75% alcohol. It is anticipated to age 18-24 months in 75% new oak barriques, 16% foudres and 9% amphorae. Deep garnet-purple colored, it is slightly broody and reduced to begin, slowly growing to reveal notions of charcoal, smoked meats, truffles and tilled soil over a core of black raspberries, warm black cherries, black berry coulis and redcurrant jelly plus wafts of Provence herbs and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is taut and muscular, tense with latent energy, offering a rock-solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the bright, vibrant fruit, finishing long and mineral laced. 94-96+ points

Antonio Galloni

The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is one of the wines in this vintage that comes very close to its 2016 sibling. A wine of dazzling intensity and stature, Les Carmes Haut-Brion is simply magnificent. Rose petal, wild black cherry, sage, menthol, licorice and dried herbs add myriad shades of complexity to this explosive, dense wine. As always, Les Carmes is done with a fair amount of whole clusters, 40% in this case, but in 2018, the maturity is such that the stems are very well integrated into the wine`s fabric. The blend is 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot and 29% Cabernet Sauvignon. 95-98 points

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