Mattia Franzina, Alfio Mozzi
Piedmont hogs the glory, Lombardy gets overlooked. In the North Italian wine leagues, there is no question which region has won the reputational battle. But there is vinous gold to be found elsewhere; in the alpine far north of Lombardy, under its local guise of Chiavennasca, Nebbiolo is cultivated in the long, narrow valley of Valtellina. The valley follows the course of the River Adda as it flows from its mountain spring to Lake Como. Historically, most wine made here was sold just over the passes, in Switzerland. The high peaks to the north and south shelter the valley from the worst excesses of mountain weather. Vines are cultivated in terraces along the south-facing slopes on the north side of the valley - these slopes enjoy full sun, from dawn to dusk. The bare, rocky soils absorb the heat and re-radiate it at night, staving off the worst of the cold. Valtellina Nebbiolo can be lighter bodied than its southern counterpart, but also very pure, delicate and refined.
Near the Lake Como end of the valley, in the village of Buglio-in-Monte, Mattia Franzina manages his tiny winery. His family has been farming here for fifty years; these days they focus only on grapes and wine. Their new winery was finished in 2014. Their vine stock on the terraces above include some vines that are over a hundred years old, and among the Nebbiolo vines are mixed in some uniquely local grape varieties (Rossola, Pignola, Merlina anyone?) - the Valtellina appellations permit the use of a small proportion of these alongside Nebbiolo. Mattia's Valtellina Rosso is charmingly soft, full of kirsch and dried rose petal notes; his Valtellina Superiore St Sixtus (named after a chapel on the peak above) is a more structured wine, full of aromas of rose petal, cassis, sandalwood and black tea.
Alfio Mozzi grew up among the vines, but spent ten years as an ironmonger before returning to his family estate. He started growing grapes for other wineries, then restored the old family winery; soon he was making his own wine. He is based in the village of Castionne Andevenno, 20 km east of Buglio-in-Monte, deep in the valley and the Sassella sub zone, which has always been known locally for its especially elegant, mineral wines. His 2016 Grisone (the name comes from the site) captures all the energy of Italy's blessed 2016 vintage, and combines aromas of cherry, rose petal and strawberry with racy acidity and a delicate, silky thread of tannins. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available now
