For one thing, Vincent (cautious, reserved, thoughtful) chooses to wait until his wines are safely in bottle before offering them, meaning his wines miss January's Burgundy en primeur spotlight. For another, it's the postcode - Rully doesn't quite have the glamour of the Cote d'Or escarpment just to the north. Yet sitting on a similar south to south-east facing clay and limestone slope a mere 15 minute-drive away, the premier cru vineyards of Rully share many of the attributes of the best sites on the Cote d'Or. Vincent's Rully Rouge blends fruit from three lieu-dits for a perfumed, ripe whole, with silky tannins melting into the fruit and oak. His white 1er cru Meix Cadot comes from mainly 35 year-old vines and is generous and intense, with exquisite purity. And over and above the domaine's 16 hectares in Rully, they also have a few in the Cote d'Or; the domaine's Bourgogne Rouge comes from a blend of vines in Premeaux and Puligny, and the Bourgogne Blanc comes from 40 year-old vines in the lieu-dit La Combe in Puligny.
In the quarter century since Vincent and his wife Celine took over his family domaine, they have transformed it, going down the path of organic viticulture and adopting the best practices of modern winemaking. Intense sorting and tireless labours in the vineyard mean only the best fruit makes it to the cellar. The combination of slow fermentations in deep, cold cellars and low-yielding old vines contribute to producing wines of great richness and complexity, which belie their appellation and price point. /NT
Offered subject to confirmation; available now online and in the shop